How I Used Science to Build the Perfect Skincare Routine
Moisturizer.
Toner.
Witch hazel.
Unicorn tears.
Beauty stores are teeming with all sorts of magical potions sworn to give you the perfect skin. But with the plethora of options to choose from, it can be overwhelming to find products that truly meet your skin’s needs. Everyone’s skin is different, so odds are your favorite Youtuber or Instagram influencer’s holy grail products may not be what’s best for you.
Everyone deserves beautiful radiant skin, not just those who happen to get lucky and stumble upon a miracle product. Dermatologists and scientists alike agree that there are a few basic skincare essentials EVERYONE should incorporate in their routines for healthy skin.
After months of researching academic papers and articles written by dermatologists and chemists, I was able to build a pretty basic skincare routine consisting of essentials backed by science. I began following this routine consistently in November of 2019 and within a month noticed significant improvement in the appearance and health of my skin. My complexion was more clear and even, I was rarely breaking out, and my skin always felt soft and hydrated.
It goes without saying that not every product in my routine will work for everyone, but by following these basic principles you should be able to customize a skincare routine that meets your skin’s specific needs.
So step away from the Micellar water and pay attention!
Here are the basics components you will need in your routine: cleanser, moisturizer, sunscreen, antioxidant serums, exfoliants and topical retinol. The components provide the moisture, cleansing, prevention, and protection that all skin types need.
I incorporate each of these components across my morning and nighttime skincare routines which take no more than 5 minutes total. Let’s get into it.
Morning Routine
I start my morning skincare routine with a gentle cleanser. Cleansers remove excess dirt, oil, and toxins that buildup on the skin over the course of the day and at night. Cleansing the skin provided a fresh, clean surface that’s better able to absorb the nutrients in your products. A good cleanser should be the foundation of any routine.
I’ve been using Cetaphil’s daily cleanser for YEARS. It’s gentle and has a fresh smell that wakes me up in the morning. Pick a cleanser that works with your skin type. Generally, gel-based formulas are beter for oily skin while lotion-based formulas are better for normal to dry skin. My skin is mostly normal with oily zones around my forehead, so this cleanser is the perfect fit for me.
I follow my Cetaphil cleanser with a brightening antioxidant serum. I use this Vitamin C Serum by L’Oreal. Vitamin C protects the skin from damaging molecules called free radicals generated by the sun’s UV rays. Free radicals damage structural proteins in the skin like collagen, leading to premature wrinkling, redness, and thinning. Antioxidants like vitamin C neutralize these free radicals and improve collagen regeneration. If that wasn’t enough, Vitamin C has also been found to prevent the development of dark spots (i.e. hyperpigmentation), making skin appear more even and radiant.
April 2019- Probably the worst my skin had ever appeared. At this point I didn’t really have a great skin routine. My diet was also probably subpar. That combined with 4th year (of medical school) festivities, poor sleep, and a tumultuous situationship pushed my skin to the edge. Here you can see the hyperpigmentation following a few breakouts.
June 2019- Even underneath makeup, the hyperpigmentation on my cheeks was still apparent and oh look a cute lil breakout in the middle of my forehead.
July 2019- More hyperpigmentation peaking through my makeup. Our friend on my forehead decided to heal and leave us a souvenir (more hyperpigmentation).
I follow my serum with a moisturizer, the last step in my morning routine. I use this Supergoop daily moisturizer with SPF. Moisturizers contain humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid that pull water into the top layers of the skin and occlusives like ceramides and petrolatum that prevent water from leaving the skin’s surface.
Not only do moisturizers leave your skin looking and feeling more hydrated, but they also increase the effectiveness of your skin’s barrier which helps decrease irritation and redness caused by pollutants, allergens, and toxins.
My moisturizer also doubles as a daily sunscreen which offers further protection from the free radicals generated by the sun’s UV rays. Study after study has shown that UV exposure is one of the leading causes of premature skin aging. Ingredients like zinc oxide and avobenzone block the sun’s UV rays to prevent skin cell damage and photoaging. The best thing you can do for your skin if nothing else is to incorporate a daily sunscreen into your routine. Your skin will thank you in the long run.
(Note: My Supergoop moisturizer sunscreen combo is the only form of sunscreen I’ve tried that doesn’t leave me looking ashy like the Gross sister from the Proud Family #blackgirlprobs)
These three steps in my morning routine take no more than five minutes daily and have both long and short term benefits that are well worth it. Let’s move on to my nighttime routine, shall we?
January 2020- a few months into using my current skincare routine. No hyperpigmentation here. By this time any hyperpigmentation following an occasional breakout would fade in a matter of days on my current regimen compared to the several weeks it would take prior.
The Night Time Routine
In the evenings I use a stronger cleanser to rid my skin of the pollutants, oils, and makeup that may have accumulated during the day. I use this Charcoal based cleanser by Biore. Charcoal is known for its purifying and cleansing properties. I use this product in the shower so that the steam can open up my pores for maximum penetration. This cleanser is also one of the ONLY products I’ve used that is able to remove a full face of makeup without stripping me of needed moisture.
After cleansing my face in the shower, I use these Peter Thomas Roth Complexion Correction Pads as a chemical exfoliant. Chemical exfoliants prevent the accumulation of dead skin by encouraging skin cell turnover and regeneration. Over time this fades hyperpigmentation more quickly and reduces the size of pores, preventing clogging and breakouts. Chemical exfoliants consist of AHAs ( alpha hydroxy acids) like glycolic, malic, or lactic acids and BHAs (betahydroxy acids) like salicylic acid.
These acids also improve the barrier function of the skin and neutralize free radicals, adding another layer of protection from sun damage and photoaging.
I complete my nighttime skin routine with a topical retinol. I use this retinol serum by Neutrogena. Retinol is a gentler, less irritating derivative of vitamin A. Retinol improves the skin’s elasticity and firmness by up-regulating collagen production. It also increases cell turnover, contributing to more even and smoother skin. Retinol is an unstable molecule that breaks down in sunlight so night time application is ideal.
That’s it, folks!
That’s the routine.
I’ve been following this regimen for months now with amazing results. My skin is smoother, more hydrated, and less prone to breakouts.
Adopting a skincare routine can be tedious and daunting at first, but knowing the basic building blocks of what your routine should consist of is a great starting point. From there you can add more products depending on your skin’s needs. When trying out new products, I’d reccomend starting with more affordable drugstore products to test how different formulas work with your skin. Starting with more affordable products is better than nothing. Upgrade to stronger, higher end products as your pockets allow. Some beauty stores like Sephora even offer free samples of most products which are great for trial runs before splurging.
It’s now time to spread your wings and head into the wilderness that is Sephora or the beauty section of you local TJ Maxx.
Let me know how it goes!
Happy hunting.
May 2020- It’s been weeks since I’ve truly broken out, to be honest. I credit my routine and better diet to these results.